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The Improbable Return Of Coco Chanel: A Fashion Legend Reinvents Herself

Jese Leos
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Published in The Improbable Return Of Coco Chanel: As Witnessed By Her Assistant Richard Parker
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Once a pioneer in the world of fashion, Coco Chanel left an indelible mark on the industry. With her iconic designs and innovative ideas, she revolutionized women's fashion and became an emblem of style and elegance. However, after her death in 1971, many believed that her legacy had come to an end. Little did they know that decades later, Coco Chanel would make an improbable return to the fashion scene.

The story of Chanel's improbable return starts with the appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as the creative director of the legendary fashion house in 1983. Lagerfeld, a visionary himself, recognized the immense potential of reviving Chanel's iconic designs and breathing new life into the brand. He understood that in order to successfully reintroduce Coco Chanel's legacy to a new generation, he needed to infuse his own creative vision while staying true to the brand's DNA.

With Lagerfeld at the helm, Chanel experienced a renaissance. The fashion house once again became a symbol of elegance, making waves on the runway and redefining the concept of luxury. Lagerfeld's genius lay in his ability to reinterpret Coco Chanel's classic designs and adapt them to contemporary tastes, while maintaining the essence of her original vision.

The Improbable Return of Coco Chanel: As Witnessed by Her Assistant, Richard Parker
by Richard Parker (Kindle Edition)

4.3 out of 5

Language : English
File size : 398 KB
Text-to-Speech : Enabled
Screen Reader : Supported
Enhanced typesetting : Enabled
Print length : 126 pages
Lending : Enabled

One of the key elements of Chanel's comeback was the re of the iconic Chanel suit. This timeless ensemble, consisting of a jacket and a skirt or trousers, had been a staple of Coco Chanel's collections. Lagerfeld recognized its enduring appeal and reinvented it for the modern woman. The Chanel suit became a must-have for fashionistas around the world, cementing the brand's status as a timeless icon.

But Lagerfeld didn't stop there. He continued to push boundaries and challenge conventions, just as Coco Chanel did during her time. Lagerfeld introduced bold and unexpected elements into Chanel's collections, such as oversized accessories, avant-garde silhouettes, and unconventional materials. His ability to blend tradition with innovation not only kept the brand relevant but also attracted a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.

Another aspect of Coco Chanel's improbable return was the expansion of the brand beyond fashion. Under Lagerfeld's guidance, Chanel ventured into new territories, including beauty, fragrance, and even art. The legendary perfume Chanel No. 5, a creation of Coco Chanel herself, continued to be a bestseller, while new fragrances were introduced to captivate modern sensibilities.

Chanel's reinvention wasn't limited to the products themselves but also extended to the way they were presented. Lagerfeld's runway shows became legendary, with extravagant sets and awe-inspiring designs that transported spectators to another world. These immersive experiences not only showcased the brand's creativity but also generated buzz and anticipation among fashion enthusiasts and industry insiders alike.

Furthermore, Chanel's commitment to sustainability and social responsibility played a crucial role in its improbable return. Lagerfeld recognized the importance of addressing environmental concerns and ensuring ethical practices throughout the supply chain. From using eco-friendly materials to supporting local artisans, Chanel became a champion of sustainability in the fashion industry.

Coco Chanel's improbable return was not without challenges. Reviving a legend comes with high expectations and scrutiny. However, Lagerfeld's vision and talent, combined with the enduring legacy of Coco Chanel, allowed the fashion house to not only survive but thrive. Chanel once again became an aspirational brand, beloved by fashion enthusiasts and respected by industry insiders.

Today, the legacy of Coco Chanel lives on. Lagerfeld's tenure as creative director came to an end in 2019, but his contribution to Chanel's improbable return will never be forgotten. The brand continues to evolve under the guidance of Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld's successor, with a renewed dedication to innovation and creativity.

In , the improbable return of Coco Chanel is a testament to the enduring power of a fashion icon. Through the visionary leadership of Karl Lagerfeld, the brand successfully reinvented itself while staying true to its heritage. Chanel's revival serves as an inspiration to both established and aspiring fashion designers, reminding us that with talent, creativity, and determination, even the impossible can be achieved.

The Improbable Return of Coco Chanel: As Witnessed by Her Assistant, Richard Parker
by Richard Parker (Kindle Edition)

4.3 out of 5

Language : English
File size : 398 KB
Text-to-Speech : Enabled
Screen Reader : Supported
Enhanced typesetting : Enabled
Print length : 126 pages
Lending : Enabled

An inexperienced young army veteran starting his career, that was me, and an aging fashion icon, that was Coco Chanel. An unlikely combination, but fortunately we worked well together. It all began in 1953, when at age seventy she was asked to leave retirement in Switzerland to become the creative director for a new showroom and office for Chanel Perfumes under construction in New York. It was to be an art-filled edifice that would mirror her opulent apartment on the Rue Cambon in Paris.

By a strange twist of fate I became her assistant on this project. To make it even stranger, I had no experience in either interior design or working with a celebrity, and I spoke only a smattering of French. For Coco Chanel it was an opportunity to be back at work, using her incredible creative talents once again. For me it became a plunge into an exotic atmosphere, replete with unpredictable challenges.

Working closely with Coco Chanel was complicated and fascinating in itself, but I also found myself involved in a turf war at the showroom. The contest was between two alpha males: Gregory Thomas, the powerful Chairman of Chanel America; and my boss, Tom Lee, the celebrated designer, over their relationship with Coco Chanel. The dispute left me in a rather precarious spot, but the upside was the creation of my position as Mademoiselle’s assistant. I started on the project as an abject beginner, but as time went on, my standing in the creative process improved. Eventually, the installation of fabulous works of art in the showroom became, in good part, my responsibility, thanks to the machinations of Gregory Thomas—always, of course, under the intense supervision of Mademoiselle Chanel.

Even though intimate aspects of Coco Chanel’s life are openly discussed, details of her creative focus in 1952, on the Chanel Perfume Showroom in New York, are almost unknown. Perhaps even less understood is how Mademoiselle’s involvement in that showroom saved her return to haute couture from disaster. As there are few aware of this most consequential aspect of her career, I have written at some length about her New York experience.

I also discuss, under the heading of “More Chanel,” several significant episodes in Coco Chanel’s life which I was not part of, but which have been either ignored or incompletely reported. I learned about these events through conversations with people living in France at that time, and from decades of research.

Much of my information comes from personally working with Mademoiselle Chanel, more from Gregory Thomas, and some from others at Chanel. My good friend, foreign correspondent, author and essayist, Hillel Bernstein, provided extensive background material. He worked for an American newspaper in Paris in the 1920s and wrote about that period for Esquire and other publications. During World War II, because of familiarity with colloquial French and knowledge of how the French government operated, he was selected by the Office of War Information to make daily broadcasts to the French Resistance with messages containing coded information. After the war, Hillel returned to Paris and wrote about conditions there in a series of articles for The New Yorker. I met him when he returned to New York and we became fast friends. We spent many hours discussing his experiences: fascinating stories that opened the door for me to historic events in evolving Post-War Europe. Most importantly, these discussions provided background information on how Coco Chanel fit into the history and legends of the time, both before the war and afterward.

The rest of my information was gleaned from pertinent obituaries and numerous books and articles, both trade and consumer, concerning the activities of La Grande Mademoiselle. I began collecting this material over 60 years ago, shortly after the showroom was completed in 1953, and have gathered it ever since.

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